What Is a Bezel Setting? Pros, Cons and Who It Suits

The jeweller forms a collar of metal that matches the outline of the stone, places the diamond inside and presses the rim over its girdle, the widest edge of the stone. A full bezel surrounds the stone completely. A partial bezel (sometimes called a half bezel) covers only two sides and leaves the others open, which lets in more light and gives a lighter look. You may also see the term collet, an older word for the same kind of metal collar. Bezels work with every diamond shape, from round and oval to pear and marquise, where the rim also protects the pointed tips, the most fragile part of those shapes.

• Security. The stone is held all the way round, so it cannot be pulled out the way a bent prong can release a stone.
• Protection. The girdle and corners are covered, which shields them from knocks and chips.
• Smooth and snag-free. No prongs to catch on knitwear, hair or gloves.
• Practical for active hands. A good choice for people who work with their hands, play sport or care for small children, and for anyone who wants a ring they never need to think about.
• Modern, clean look. The metal rim frames the stone in a single line.

• A little less light from the sides. The rim blocks part of the light that would enter through the side of the stone. The diamond still sparkles through its top, but the effect is quieter than in a prong setting.
• Slightly smaller look. The metal covers the edge of the stone, so a bezel-set diamond can look a touch smaller than the same stone in prongs. A thin rim or a partial bezel reduces the effect.
• Harder to reset the stone. Removing or replacing the diamond means opening the metal rim and closing it again, which is more work than lifting prongs. Resizing the band itself is usually not affected, as long as the band is plain metal.
• Cleaning. Dirt can collect along the inside edge of the rim; a soft brush with warm soapy water keeps it bright.